Cosmetic compositions and methods of their use

ABSTRACT

Disclosed is a method for moisturizing skin. The method can include topically applying to skin in need thereof a composition comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight of lactobacillus ferment, 0.001 to 1% by weight of Ferula foetida root extract, 0.001 to 1% by weight of Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, 0.001 to 1% by weight of Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, and 0.1 to 3% by weight of niacinamide, wherein the skin in need thereof is dry skin.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No.15/894,678 filed Feb. 12, 2018, which is a continuation of U.S. patentapplication Ser. No. 14/796,104 (U.S. Pat. No. 9,913,799) filed Jul. 10,2015, which claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No.62/023,411, filed Jul. 11, 2014. The contents of the referencedapplications are incorporated into the present application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION A. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to topical skin compositionsthat can be used to moisturize and/or improve the appearance of skin.

B. Description of Related Art

When skin is exposed more to the sun, there is an increase in theproduction of cells known as melanocytes, which may then cause the skinto darken. These dark skin patches are known as brown spots, age spots,dark spots, sun spots and liver spots. Brown spots generally appear onexposed skin areas like the face, back, neck, chest, shoulders andhands. Some of the main causes of brown spots are sun exposure, aging,genetics, menopause, pregnancy, stress, improper skincare, weak liver,hyper-pigmentation of the skin, lack of vitamin C or B12, smoking,cancer, dermatitis, and diabetes.

There is a need in the art for compositions effective for moisturizingthe skin and for improving the appearance of dark spots on the skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention overcomes deficiencies in the art by providing acosmetically elegant composition that has the ability to improve theappearance of skin by moisturizing skin, evening skin tone, and/orreducing the appearance of dark spots. In particular, the inventorsidentified a combination of ingredients, including lactobacillusferment, Ferula foetida root extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seedextract, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, and niacinamide thatwork to improve the appearance of skin by moisturizing skin, eveningskin tone, and/or reducing the appearance of dark spots.

In one aspect, the disclosure relates to a topical skin compositioncomprising an effective amount of lactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetidaroot extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, Terminaliaferdinandiana fruit extract, and niacinamide, wherein the composition iscapable of reducing excess pigmentation of the skin. In someembodiments, the composition may further comprise an effective amount ofascorbyl glucoside. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise 1to 3% by weight of ascorbyl glucoside. In some embodiments, thecomposition may further comprise Myciaria dubia fruit extract, Castaneasativa seed extract, Hydrolyzed myrtus communis leaf extract, Undariapinnatifida extract, Camellia oleifera leaf extract, and Euterpeoleracea fruit extract. Alternatively or in addition, one or anycombination said ingredients can be used in the compositions of thepresent invention. The amounts of the ingredients within the compositioncan vary (e.g., amounts can be as low as 0.000001% to as high as 80% w/wor any ranger therein). In some embodiments, the composition maycomprise 0.01 to 3% by weight of lactobacillus ferment, 0.001 to 1% byweight of Ferula foetida root extract, 0.001 to 1% by weight ofHelianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, and 0.001 to 1% Terminaliaferdinandiana fruit extract, and 0.1 to 3% by weight of niacinamide. Insome embodiments, the composition may comprise or may further comprise0.01 to 0.5% by weight of Myciaria dubia fruit extract, 0.01 to 0.5% byweight of Castanea sativa seed extract, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight ofHydrolyzed Myrtus communis leaf extract, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight ofUndaria pinnatifida extract, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of Camelliaoleifera leaf extract, and 0.0001 to 0.5% by weight of Euterpe oleraceafruit extract. In some embodiments, the lactobacillus ferment, Ferulafoetida root extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, and/orTerminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract is an aqueous extract. In someembodiments, the lactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extract,Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, and/or Terminaliaferdinandiana fruit extract is an alcoholic extract. In someembodiments, the topical skin composition may further comprise one ormore solvents. In some embodiments, the one or more solvents areselected from water, dimethyl isosorbide, 1,2-hexanediol, denaturedalcohol, hexylene glycol, and C13-14 isoparaffin. In some embodiments,the one or more solvents comprise water. In some embodiments, thetopical skin composition is formulated as an emulsion, a lotion, a gel,a serum, a mask, or an ointment. In some embodiments, the topical skincomposition is formulated as a serum. In some embodiments, the topicalskin composition may further comprise one or more additional ingredientsselected from one or more preservatives, moisturizing agents,conditioning agents, thickening agents, structuring agents, emulsifiers,pH adjusters, chelating agents, and antioxidants.

Also disclosed in the context of the present invention are embodiments 1to 19. Embodiment 1 is a topical skin composition comprising aneffective amount of lactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extract,Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, and Terminalia ferdinandianafruit extract, and niacinamide, wherein the composition is capable ofreducing excess pigmentation of the skin. Embodiment 2 is the topicalskin composition of embodiment 1, wherein the composition furthercomprises an effective amount of ascorbyl glucoside. Embodiment 3 is thetopical skin composition of embodiment 2 comprising 1 to 3% by weight ofascorbyl glucoside. Embodiment 4 is the topical skin composition of anyone of embodiments 1-3, wherein the composition further comprisesMyciaria dubia fruit extract, Castanea sativa seed extract, HydrolyzedMyrtus communis leaf extract, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Camelliaoleifera leaf extract, and Euterpe oleracea fruit extract. Embodiment 5is the topical skin composition of any one of embodiments 1-4, whereinthe lactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extract, Helianthusannuus (sunflower) seed extract, and/or Terminalia ferdinandiana fruitextract is an aqueous extract. Embodiment 6 is the topical skincomposition of any one of embodiments 1-5, wherein the lactobacillusferment, Ferula foetida root extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seedextract, and/or Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract is an alcoholextract. Embodiment 7 is the topical skin composition of any one ofembodiments 1-6, wherein the composition further comprises one or moresolvents. Embodiment 8 is the topical skin composition of embodiment 7,wherein the one or more solvents comprise water, dimethyl isosorbide,1,2-hexanediol, denatured alcohol, hexylene glycol, and/or C13-14isoparaffin. Embodiment 9 is the topical skin composition of embodiment8, wherein the one or more solvents comprises water. Embodiment 10 isthe topical skin composition of any one of embodiments 1-9, wherein thecomposition is formulated as an emulsion, a lotion, a gel, a serum, amask, or an ointment. Embodiment 11, is the topical skin composition ofembodiment 10, wherein the composition is formulated as a serum.Embodiment 12 is the topical skin composition of any one of embodiment1-11 comprising 0.01 to 3% by weight of lactobacillus ferment, 0.001 to1% by weight of Ferula foetida root extract, 0.001 to 1% by weight ofHelianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, 0.001 to 1% Terminaliaferdinandiana fruit extract and 0.1 to 3% by weight of niacinamide.Embodiment 13 is the topical skin composition of any one of embodiments1-12 comprising or further comprising 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of Myciariadubia fruit extract, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of Castanea sativa seedextract, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of Hydrolyzed Myrtus communis leafextract, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of Undaria pinnatifida extract, 0.001to 0.5% by weight of Camellia oleifera leaf extract, and 0.0001 to 0.5%by weight of Euterpe oleracea fruit extract. Embodiment 14 is thetopical skin composition of any one of embodiments 1-13, furthercomprising one or more additional ingredients selected from one or morepreservatives, moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, thickeningagents, structuring agents, emulsifiers, pH adjusters, chelating agents,and antioxidants. Embodiment 15 is a method for moisturizing and/orimproving the appearance of skin comprising applying the topical skincomposition of any one of embodiments 1-14 to skin in need thereof.Embodiment 16 is the method of embodiment 15, wherein the topical skincomposition reduces the appearance of dark spots on the skin. Embodiment17 is the method of embodiment 15 or 16, wherein the topical skincomposition reduces excess pigmentation of the skin. Embodiment 18 isthe method of any one of embodiments 15-17, wherein the topical skincomposition is applied daily for a period of time. Embodiment 19 is themethod of embodiment 18, wherein the period of time is thirty days orlonger.

In one aspect, the disclosure relates to a topical skin compositioncomprising lactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extract,Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, Terminalia ferdinandianafruit extract, and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. In someembodiments, the composition may further comprise glycerin, titaniumdioxide, butylene glycol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Alternatively,one or any combination said ingredients can be used in the compositionsof the present invention. The amounts of the ingredients within thecomposition can vary (e.g., amounts can be as low as 0.000001% to ashigh as 80% w/w or any ranger therein). In one instance, the compositionincludes 0.01 to 3% by weight of lactobacillus ferment, 0.001 to 1% byweight of Ferula foetida root extract, 0.001 to 1% by weight ofHelianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, and 0.001 to 1% Terminaliaferdinandiana fruit extract. In some embodiments, the composition maycomprise 5 to 13% by weight of glycerin, 5 to 10% by weight of titaniumdioxide, 2 to 7% by weight of butylene glycol, and 0.0001 to 0.1% byweight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate. In some embodiments, the topicalskin composition may further comprise one or more solvents. In someembodiments, the one or more solvents are selected from water, dimethylisosorbide, 1,2-hexanediol, denatured alcohol, hexylene glycol, andC13-14 isoparaffin. In some embodiments, the one or more solventscomprise water. In further embodiments, the topical skin composition isformulated as an emulsion, a lotion, a gel, a serum, a mask, or anointment. In some embodiments, the topical skin composition isformulated as a mask. In some embodiments, the topical skin compositionmay further comprise one or more additional ingredients selected fromone or more preservatives, moisturizing agents, conditioning agents,thickening agents, structuring agents, emulsifiers, pH adjusters,chelating agents, and antioxidants.

Also disclosed in the context of the current disclosure are embodiments20 to 33. Embodiment 20 is a topical skin composition comprisinglactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extract, Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed extract, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, and adermatologically acceptable vehicle. Embodiment 21 is the topical skincomposition of embodiment 20, further comprising glycerin, titaniumdioxide, butylene glycol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Embodiment 22,is the topical skin composition of embodiment 20 or 21, furthercomprising one or more solvents. Embodiment 23 is the topical skincomposition of embodiment 22, wherein the one or more solvents areselected from water, dimethyl isosorbide, 1,2-hexanediol, denaturedalcohol, hexylene glycol, and C13-14 isoparaffin. Embodiment 24 is thetopical skin composition of embodiment 23, wherein the one or moresolvents comprises water. Embodiment 25 is the topical skin compositionof any one of embodiments 20-24, wherein the composition is formulatedas an emulsion, a lotion, a gel, a serum, a mask, or an ointment.Embodiment 26 is the topical skin composition of embodiment 25, whereinthe composition is formulated as a mask. Embodiment 27 is the topicalskin composition of any one of embodiments 20-26, wherein thecomposition comprises 0.01 to 3% by weight of lactobacillus ferment,0.001 to 1% by weight of Ferula foetida root extract, 0.001 to 1% byweight of Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract, and 0.001 to 1%Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract. Embodiment 28 is the topicalskin composition of any one of embodiments 20-27 comprising or furthercomprising 5 to 13% by weight of glycerin, 5 to 10% by weight oftitanium dioxide, 2 to 7% by weight of butylene glycol, and 0.0001 to0.1% by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Embodiment 29 is thetopical skin composition of any one of embodiments 20-28, wherein thecomposition further comprises one or more additional ingredientsselected from one or more preservatives, moisturizing agents,conditioning agents, thickening agents, structuring agents, emulsifiers,pH adjusters, chelating agents, and antioxidants. Embodiment 30 is amethod for moisturizing and/or improving the appearance of skincomprising applying the topical skin composition of any one ofembodiments 20-29 to skin in need thereof. Embodiment 31 is the methodof embodiment 30, wherein the topical skin composition reduces theappearance of dark spots on the skin. Embodiment 32 is the method ofembodiment 30 or 31, wherein the topical skin composition is applieddaily for a period of time. Embodiment 33 is the method of embodiment32, wherein the period of time is thirty days or longer.

It is also contemplated that the compositions disclosed throughout thisspecification can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off composition. By wayof example, a leave-on composition can be one that is topically appliedto skin and remains on the skin for a period of time (e.g., at least 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, or 30 minutes, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24 hours,or overnight or throughout the day). Alternatively, a rinse-offcomposition can be a product that is intended to be applied to the skinand then removed or rinsed from the skin (e.g., with water) within aperiod of time such as less than 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1 minute. An example ofa rinse of composition can be a skin cleanser, shampoo, conditioner, orsoap. An example of a leave-on composition can be a skin moisturizer,sunscreen, mask, overnight cream, or a day cream.

The compositions can also include any one of or any combination ofcosmetic and/or pharmaceutical ingredients disclosed in thisspecification. For instance, compositions can include ingredients fromat least one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, and/orten of the following categories: (1) UV absorption agents; (2)moisturizing agents; (3) antioxidants; (4) structuring agents; (5)emulsifiers; (6) silicone containing compounds; (7) essential oils; (8)thickening agents; (9) preservatives; and/or (10) conditioning agents.The amounts of such ingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% byweight or volume of the composition, or any integer or range in betweenas disclosed in other sections of this specification.

It is also contemplated that the viscosity of the compositions describedherein can be selected to achieve a desired result (e.g., depending onthe type of composition desired, the viscosity of such composition canbe from about 1 cps to well over 1 million cps or any range or integerderivable therein (e.g., 2 cps, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50,60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000,3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000,50000, 60000, 70000, 80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000,500000, 600000, 700000, 800000, 900000, 1000000, cps, etc., as measuredon a Brookfield Viscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25° C.). Thecompositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 to about9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,12, 13, or 14. In other aspects, the compositions can be sunscreenshaving a sun protection factor (SPF) of 1, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35,40, 45, 50, 55, or more. The compositions can be sunscreen lotions,sprays, or creams. In particular aspects, the compositions can beoil-free, substantially anhydrous, and/or anhydrous. Other aspectsinclude compositions having water.

Also disclosed are methods for using the compositions described herein.Method aspects relate to a method for moisturizing and/or improving theappearance of skin comprising applying a topical skin composition of thedisclosure to skin in need thereof. In some embodiments, thecompositions are applied to dark spots on skin, uneven skin, orhyperpigmented skin. In some embodiments, the topical skin compositionreduces the appearance of dark spots on the skin. In some embodiments,the topical skin composition reduces excess pigmentation of the skin. Infurther embodiments, uneven skin tone appears more even afterapplication of the topical skin composition.

The topical skin compositions of the disclosure may be applied daily,twice per day, 3, 4, or 5 times or more per day, every other day, once aweek, or twice a week. In some embodiments, the topical skincompositions are applied daily. The topical skin compositions may beapplied regularly for a period of time such as for at least one week, atleast one month, at least six months, at least one year or longer untilimprovement is seen. For example, the compositions may be applied for aperiod of from one week to one month, six months, or one year; or aperiod of from one month to six months, one year, two years, or tenyears.

In some embodiments, the composition is applied to facial skin. Infurther embodiments, the composition is applied to skin on a user's armsor hands. The composition can be applied to leg skin, arm skin, torsoskin, neck skin, or skin in the pelvic region.

Additionally or alternatively, the compositions can also be used totreat or prevent a variety of skin conditions. For instance, thecompositions can be used to treat or prevent a fine line or wrinkle,erythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin. In particular aspects,erythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin is caused by skin sunburn,electrical treatments of skin, skin burns, contact allergies, systemicallergies, skin toxicity, exercise, insect stings, bacterial infection,viral infection, fungal infection, protozoa infection, massage, orwindburn. In other aspects, the following additional skin conditions canbe treated or prevented in accordance with the methods and compositionsdisclosed throughout the specification and claims: pruritus, lentigo,spider veins, age spots, senile purpura, keratosis, melasma, blotches,nodules, sun damaged skin, dermatitis (including, but not limited toseborrheic dermatitis, nummular dermatitis, contact dermatitis, atopicdermatitis, exfoliative dermatitis, perioral dermatitis, and stasisdermatitis), psoriasis, folliculitis, rosacea, acne, impetigo,erysipelas, erythrasma, eczema, and other inflammatory skin conditions.In certain non-limiting aspects, the skin condition can be caused byexposure to UV light, age, irradiation, chronic sun exposure,environmental pollutants, air pollution, wind, cold, heat, chemicals,disease pathologies, smoking, or lack of nutrition. The skin can befacial skin or non-facial skin (e.g., arms, legs, hands, chest, back,feet, etc.). The method can further comprise identifying a person inneed of skin treatment. The person can be a male or female. The age ofthe person can be at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25,30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, or more yearsold, or any range derivable therein. The method can also includetopically applying an amount effective to: increase the stratum corneumturnover rate of the skin; increase collagen synthesis in fibroblasts;increase cellular anti-oxidant defense mechanisms (e.g., exogenousadditions of anti-oxidants can bolster, replenish, or prevent the lossof cellular antioxidants such as catalase and glutathione in skin cells(e.g., keratinocytes, melanocytes, langerhans cells, etc.) which willreduce or prevent oxidative damage to the skin, cellular, proteins, andlipids); inhibit melanin production in melanocytes; reduce or preventoxidative damage to skin (including reducing the amount lipid peroxidesand/or protein oxidation in the skin).

Also contemplated are kits that include any one of the compositionsdisclosed throughout the specification and claims. In certainembodiments, the composition is comprised in a container. The containercan be a bottle, dispenser, or package. The container can dispense apre-determined amount of the composition. In certain aspects, thecompositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, or liquid. The containercan include indicia on its surface. The indicia can be a word, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a foundation, a night cream, a lipstick, acleanser, a toner, a sunscreen, a mask, or an anti-aging product.

Also contemplated are containers comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the container can be a bottle, ametal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, a dispenser, a pressurizedcontainer, a barrier container, a package, a compartment, a lipstickcontainer, a compact container, cosmetic pans that can hold cosmeticcompositions, or other types of containers such as injection orblow-molded plastic containers into which the dispersions orcompositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packages are retained.The containers can have spray, pump, or squeeze mechanisms.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients disclosedthroughout the specification. As used in this specification andclaim(s), the words “comprising” (and any form of comprising, such as“comprise” and “comprises”), “having” (and any form of having, such as“have” and “has”), “including” (and any form of including, such as“includes” and “include”) or “containing” (and any form of containing,such as “contains” and “contain”) are inclusive or open-ended and do notexclude additional, unrecited elements or method steps.

“Consisting essentially of” means that inclusion of additionalingredients in the compositions do not materially affect the beneficialproperties of the compositions as compositions. For instance, if acomposition “consists essentially of” lactobacillus ferment; Ferulafoetida root extract; Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract; andTerminali ferdinandiana fruit extract, said composition excludes anyingredients that would materially affect the beneficial properties ofthe compositions for improving the appearance of skin by evening skintone and/or for reducing the appearance of dark spots.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In some embodiments, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant. “Pharmaceutically elegant”and/or “cosmetically elegant” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition” includescompositions suitable for topical application on keratinous tissue. Suchcompositions are typically dermatologically-acceptable in that they donot have undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergicresponse, and the like, when applied to skin. Topical skin carecompositions of the present invention can have a selected viscosity toavoid significant dripping or pooling after application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting,” “reducing,” “treating,” or any variation ofthese terms, when used in the claims and/or the specification includesany measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desiredresult.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

The compositions described herein are useful for improving theappearance of skin by evening skin tone and/or reducing the appearanceof dark spots or hyperpigmented skin. The compositions described hereinmay also be used to impart a fragrance, shine, or protectant film to theskin.

The present invention is premised on a discovery of a combination ofingredients—lactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extractHelianthus annuus seed extract, and Terminalia ferdinandiana fruitextract—that can be used to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays fromthe sun. In some embodiments, the composition also comprisesniacinamide. These ingredients are discussed in more detail below.

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is an organic compound known toexhibit skin conditioning benefits when used in cosmetic compositions.Niacinamide has the following chemical formula:

Lactobacillus is a genus of Gram-positive facultative anaerobic bacteriathat convert lactose and other sugars to lactic acid. Lactobacillusextracts in cosmetic compositions serve a variety of purposes, includingprotecting skin against pathogenic microflora, acting as an emulsifier,moisture retention in skin, improving skin fatigue, anti-ageing, andwhitening.

Ferula foetida root extract is from a flowering plant in the Ferulagenus. Ferula foetida root extract has tyrosinase inhibiting propertiesand may be useful to treat hyperpigmentation. It is rich in ferulicacid.

Helianthus annuus, also known as sunflower, is an annual plant in theAsteraceae family. Extract of the seed of the sunflower can be used as askin conditioner in cosmetics and can be an anti-free radical agent forhair and/or skin protection.

Terminalia ferdinandiana, also known as kakadu plum, is a flowing plant.The kakadu plum has a high vitamin C concentration and also includesphytochemicals such as gallic acid, ellagic acid, and related compounds.

A. Compositions of the Present Invention

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any cosmetic ingredient or any combination thereof describedthroughout this specification. The concentrations of the any ingredientwithin the compositions can vary. In non-limiting embodiments, forexample, the compositions can comprise, consisting essentially of, orconsist of, in their final form, for example, at least about 0.0001%,0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%,0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%,0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%,0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%,0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%,0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%,0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%,0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%,0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%,0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%,0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%,0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%,0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%,0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%,0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%,0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%,0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%,0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%,0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.0550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%,0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%,0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%,1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%,2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%,3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%,4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%,6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%,7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%,8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%,9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%,21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%,60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or any range derivabletherein, of at least one of the ingredients that are mentionedthroughout the specification and claims. In non-limiting aspects, thepercentage can be calculated by weight or volume of the totalcomposition. A person of ordinary skill in the art would understand thatthe concentrations can vary depending on the addition, substitution,and/or subtraction of ingredients in a given composition.

The disclosed compositions of the present invention may also includevarious antioxidants to retard oxidation of one or more components.Additionally, the prevention of the action of microorganisms can bebrought about by preservatives such as various antibacterial andantifungal agents, including but not limited to parabens (e.g.,methylparabens, propylparabens), chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid,thimerosal or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, thecompositions do not contain parabens.

B. Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated into alltypes of vehicles. Non-limiting examples of suitable vehicles includeemulsions (e.g., water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water,silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil,oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (bothaqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks andpowders), gels, and ointments or by other method or any combination ofthe forgoing as would be known to one of ordinary skill in the art(Remington's, 1990). Variations and other appropriate vehicles will beapparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use in thepresent invention. In certain aspects, it is important that theconcentrations and combinations of the compounds, ingredients, andagents be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemicallycompatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finishedproduct.

It is also contemplated that ingredients identified throughout thisspecification can be individually or combinatorially encapsulated fordelivery to a target area such as skin. Non-limiting examples ofencapsulation techniques include the use of liposomes, vesicles, and/ornanoparticles (e.g., biodegradable and non-biodegradable colloidalparticles comprising polymeric materials in which the ingredient istrapped, encapsulated, and/or absorbed—examples include nanospheres andnanocapsules) that can be used as delivery vehicles to deliver theingredient to skin (see, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,398; U.S. Pat. No.6,203,802; U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,744; Kreuter 1998).

C. Cosmetic Products and Articles of Manufacture

The composition of the present invention can also be used in manycosmetic products including, but not limited to, sunscreen products,sunless skin tanning products, hair products, finger nail products,moisturizing creams, skin benefit creams and lotions, softeners, daylotions, gels, ointments, foundations, night creams, lipsticks,cleansers, toners, masks, or other known cosmetic products orapplications. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated asleave-on or rinse-off products. In certain aspects, the compositions ofthe present invention are stand-alone products.

D. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the specific combination of ingredients disclosed herein,compositions of the present invention can include additional ingredientssuch as cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical active ingredients.Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients are described inthe following subsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural;e.g. gluconic acid, phenoxyethanol, and triethanolamine), dyes andcolorants (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, Red 28 Lake, Red 7 Lake,Red 6 Lake, titanium dioxide, Unipure Red 6, Unipure Red 28, Unipure Red33, Unipure Yellow OX, Unipure Yellow 5, FD&C blue 1, D&C blue no. 4,D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no. 17, D&C red no. 6, D&Cred no. 7, D&C red no. 30, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellowno. 10, D&C yellow no. 11, iron oxides, chromium oxides, tin oxide,ultramarines, and mica), flavoring agents (e.g. Stevia rebaudiana(sweetleaf) extract), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents (e.g. water,dimethyl isosorbide, hydrocarbons, C13-14 isoparaffin, hexylene glycol,isododecane, octyldodecanol, glycerin, denatured alcohol,1,2-hexanediol, and propylene glycol), moisturizers (including, e.g.,emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agents thataffect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin),water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such asparaaminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g. A,B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g. zinc, calcium and selenium),inorganic salts (e.g. sodium chloride, magnesium nitrate, and magnesiumchloride), anti-irritants (e.g. steroids and non-steroidalanti-inflammatories), botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile,cucumber extract, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbialagents, antioxidants (e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g.,disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparabenand propylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide, sodiumcitrate, triethanolamine, and citric acid), absorbents (e.g., aluminumstarch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oat starch, cyclodextrin,talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching and lightening agents (e.g.,hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g., sorbitol, urea,and mannitol), exfoliants, waterproofing agents (e.g.,magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), conditioning agents (e.g., aloeextracts, allantoin, bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid,and dipotassium glycyrrhizate), and film formers (e.g. acrylatescopolymer and polyquarternium-7). Non-limiting examples of some of theseingredients are provided in the following subsections.

a. UV Absorption Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, oxtinoxate,dibenzoylmethane derivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyltriazone, digalloy trioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone withdihydroxyacetone, ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone,benzylidene malonate polysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonicacid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate,bis benzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizoletrisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyiphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine,4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate.Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc,petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA,sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, apricot (prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (betulaalba) bark extract, borage (borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendula officinalisextract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon (elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60,polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassiumpalmitate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (oryzasativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil,safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil,sandalwood (santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (sesamumindicum) oil, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitanlaurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate,sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids,squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxydimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearylglycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower(helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcis)oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryllinoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate,triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat(triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCI, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emollient, emulsifier or surfactant.Non-limiting examples of structuring agents include stearic acid,palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, PPG-30 cetyl ether,behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycolether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 21ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcoholhaving an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units,polyoxyethylene methylglucoside dioleate, tea-lauryl sulfate,polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate,propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, 3-hydroxypropyl(E)-octadec-9-enoate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan stearate, carbomer,ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/carboxyethyl acrylate crosspolymer,sodium laureth sulfate, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, PPG-26 oleate,dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, hydrolyzed jojoba esters,carboxylic acid copolymers, esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylatedethers, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fattyether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEAstearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitanmonolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol,steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucoseether distearate, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassiumcetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60,glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, C20-40 alcohols, PEG/PPG-18/18dimethicone, maltodextrin, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Silicone containing compounds of the invention may also beused as bulking agents (e.g. silicic acid and aluminum calcium sodiumsilicate). Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be used inthe context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several methods known tothose of skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e.,extraction by using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanicalpressing). When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend toevaporate (i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils arecolorless, but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essentialoils are insoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixedoils (vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physicalcharacteristics found in essential oils include boiling points that varyfrom about 160° to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 toabout 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

h. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase or control the viscosity of acomposition. Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosityof a composition without substantially modifying the efficacy of theactive ingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increasethe stability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene or trihydroxystearin, or a mixture of both.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379.

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Further non-limiting examples of thickening agents include carbomer,cetyl alcohol, ammonium acryloydimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, aluminumstarch actenylsuccinate, cocamidopropyl betaine, PPG-2 hydroxyethylcoco/isostearamide, tin oxide, hexadecane copolymer, calcium aluminumborosilicate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, aluminum calciumsodium silicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, dipropylene glycol,quaternium-90 bentonite, and disodium EDTA.

i. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), benzyl alcohol, chlorobutanol,phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal, caprylyl glycol, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone,sodium benzoate, dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl alcohol, ethylhexyl glycerin,hexylene glycol, DMDM hydantoin, chlorphenesin, and combinationsthereof.

j. Conditioning Agents

Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents that can be used in thecontext of the present invention include caprylyl glycol,ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-12 dimethicone, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin,dimethicone, tocopheryl acetate, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter),polymers of polyethylene glycol and methicone, Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed oil, Euterpe oleracea fruit extract, Camellia oleiferaleaf extract, hydrolyzed Myrtus communis leaf extract, PEG-18 glyceryloleate/cocoate, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane,cyclopentasiloxane, tocopherol, glycerin, Undaria pinnatifida extract,Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) oleosomes, butylene glycol, Myrciariadubia fruit extract, Castanea sativa (chestnut) seed extract, allantoin,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, propyleneglycol stearate, panthenol, polypropylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol,polyquaternium-7, ethoxylated glyceryl esters, ethylhexyl palmitate.aloe extracts, bisabolol, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, dipotassiumglycyrrhizate, cocamidopropyl betaine, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate, tridecyl trimellitate, salicylic acid,dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer; PEG-9 dimethicone,biosaccharide gum, decylene glycol, ethylene brassylate, pentyleneglycol, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, ionone, tetramethylacetyloctahydronaphthalenes, methyl decenol, dimethyl heptenal,trimethylcyclopentenyl dimethylisopentenol, 3-hexenol, jojoba esters,PEG-8 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents, antiseborrheic agents, biologicallyactive proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents, cauterizing agents,depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rash treatment agents,enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growth retardants including DFMOand its salts and analogs, hemostatics, kerotolytics, canker soretreatment agents, cold sore treatment agents, dental and periodontaltreatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skin protectant/barrieragents, steroids including hormones and corticosteroids, sunburntreatment agents, sunscreens, transdermal actives, nasal actives,vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, wound treatment agents, woundhealing agents, etc.

E. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1 Non-Limiting Examples of Compositions

The compositions listed in Tables 1-4 are non-limiting compositions thatcan be used in the context of the present invention.

TABLE 1* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 90 LactobacillusFerment 0.5 Ferula foetida Root Extract 0.1 Helianthus annuus(sunflower) 0.02 Seed Extract Terminalia ferdinandiana 0.01 FruitExtract Niacinamide 1 Excipients*** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Any of the additional ingredients (or combinationthereof) described in the specification can be used. ***Excipients canbe added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 70% w/w, andpreferably between 70 to 95% w/w.

TABLE 2* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 90 Niacinamide 1Lactobacillus Ferment 0.5 Ferula foetida Root Extract 0.1 Helianthusannuus (sunflower) 0.02 Seed Extract Terminalia ferdinandiana 0.01 FruitExtract Myciaria dubia Fruit Extract 0.07 Castanea sativa Seed Extract0.05 Hydrolyzed Myrtus communis 0.02 Leaf Extract Undaria pinnatifidaExtract 0.01 Camellia oleifera Leaf Extract 0.01 Euterpe oleracea FruitExtract 0.0005 Excipients*** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared by mixingthe ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. until homogenous.Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing room temperature(20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredients can beadded, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Any of the additional ingredients (or combinationthereof) described in the specification can be used. ***Excipients canbe added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 70% w/w, andpreferably between 70 to 95% w/w.

TABLE 3* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 90 DimethylIsosorbide 1 Lactobacillus Ferment 0.5 Ferula foetida Root Extract 0.1Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 0.02 Seed Extract Terminalia ferdinandiana0.01 Fruit Extract Excipients*** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Any of the additional ingredients (or combinationthereof) described in the specification can be used. ***Excipients canbe added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 70% w/w, andpreferably between 70 to 95% w/w.

TABLE 4* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 75 Glycerin 8Titanium Dioxide 7 Butylene Glycol 5 Lactobacillus Ferment 0.05 Ferulafoetida Root Extract 0.005 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 0.002 SeedExtract Terminalia ferdinandiana 0.01 Fruit Extract DipotassiumGlycyrrhizate 0.001 Excipients*** q.s. *Formulation can be prepared bymixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. untilhomogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing roomtemperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired, additional ingredientscan be added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. **Any of the additional ingredients (or combinationthereof) described in the specification can be used. ***Excipients canbe added, for example, to modify the rheological properties of thecomposition. Alternatively, the amount of water can be varied so long asthe amount of water in the composition is at least 60% w/w, andpreferably between 60 to 85% w/w.

TABLE 5* % Concentration Ingredient** (by weight) Water 75 Glycerin 8Titanium Dioxide 7 Butylene Glycol 5 C₁₃₋₁₄Isoparaffin 0.5 LactobacillusFerment 0.05 Ferula foetida Root Extract 0.005 Helianthus annuus(sunflower) 0.002 Seed Extract Terminalia ferdinandiana 0.01 FruitExtract Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 0.001 Excipients*** q.s. *Formulationcan be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75°C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled tostanding room temperature (20-25° C.). Further, and if desired,additional ingredients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. **Any of the additionalingredients (or combination thereof) described in the specification canbe used. ***Excipients can be added, for example, to modify therheological properties of the composition. Alternatively, the amount ofwater can be varied so long as the amount of water in the composition isat least 60% w/w, and preferably between 60 to 85% w/w.

Example 2 Assays

The efficacy of the combination of ingredients disclosed throughout thespecification and claims can be determined by using the followingassays.

Erythema Assay:

An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated usinga Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2%solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The areais protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patchis removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using thea* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes inskin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area istreated with a composition of the present invention. Repeat measurementsare taken at regular intervals to determine the formula's ability toreduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether a composition is inducing irritation. The measurements can bemade on each side of the face and averaged, as left and right facialvalues. Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:

Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analognumerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. Nodark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand heldmagnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7)even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, butslight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. Nodiscolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discolorationand uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough tothe touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture.Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented,erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm indiameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:

Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten pointanalog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, noresistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth,slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing;and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were madeindependently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978):

Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually byusing the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, ateach subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number ofsuperficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scoredand recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a numberfactor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for theeye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as thetotal wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:

Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a devicethat evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping asmall body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. Theballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip(4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly intothe skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon theproperties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratumcorneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:

Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:

The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated usingreplicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubberlike material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by imageanalysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can beobjectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form thesubjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer imageanalysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neckarea, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidencelighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processingprogram and the area of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lineswas determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:

The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay:

In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of the compositions of thepresent invention can be evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, forexample, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog,stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), aprecursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated witha variety of bases containing the compositions and whitening agents ofthe present invention or with the base alone as a control.Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can be used as acontrol.

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of thearomatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also be assayed bymeasuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients or compositions.This assay can quantify the degree and length of time it takes toinhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygen radicals thatare known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). The ORAC value ofthe aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can be determinedby methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S.Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), allof which are incorporated by reference). In summary, the assay describedin Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidant compounds intest materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE)fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M-1 cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).

B16 Pigmentation Assay:

Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. This bioassay utilizes B16-F1melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mouse melanoma cell line, to analyzethe effect of compounds on melanogenesis. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement of melanin production and cellularviability. B16-F1 melanocytes, can be cultivated in standard DMEM growthmedium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂ andthen treated with any one of the active ingredients, combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification for 6 days. Following incubation, melanin secretion wasmeasured by absorbance at 405 nm and cellular viability was quantified.

Collagen Stimulation Assay:

Collagen is an extracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure.Increased synthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness andelasticity. This bioassay can be used to examine the effect of any oneof the active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) by humanepidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay is aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of procollagenpeptide and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitativesandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any procollagenpeptide present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing awayany unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specificfor procollagen peptide can be added to the wells. Following a wash toremove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can beadded to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount ofprocollagen peptide bound in the initial step using a microplate readerfor detection at 450 nm. The color development can be stopped and theintensity of the color can be measured. Subconfluent normal human adultepidermal fibroblasts (Cascade Biologics) cultivated in standard DMEMgrowth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10%CO₂, can be treated with each of the combination of ingredients orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification for3 days. Following incubation, cell culture medium can be collected andthe amount of procollagen peptide secretion quantified using a sandwichenzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from Takara (#MK101).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropiccytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in itsexpression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatoryactivity. This bioassay can be used to analyze the effect of any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification on theproduction of TNF-α by human epidermal keratinocytes. The endpoint ofthis assay can be a spectrophotometric measurement that reflects thepresence of TNF-α and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples can be pipetted into the wells and any TNF-αpresent is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away anyunbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specific forTNF-α can be added to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution can be added to the wellsand color develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound in theinitial step using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. Thecolor development can be stopped and the intensity of the color can bemeasured. Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (CascadeBiologics) cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (CascadeBiologics) at 37° C. in 5% CO₂, can be treated with phorbol 12-myristate13-acetate (PMA, 10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) and any one ofthe active ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification for 6 hours. PMAhas been shown to cause a dramatic increase in TNF-α secretion whichpeaks at 6 hours after treatment. Following incubation, cell culturemedium can be collected and the amount of TNF-α secretion quantifiedusing a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from R&DSystems (#DTA00C).

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity ofany one of the ingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The assayrelies on the ability of antioxidants in the sample to inhibit theoxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) toABTS®+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organismsincludes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) can be used as an in vitro bioassay to measure thetotal anti-oxidant capacity of each of any one of the activeingredients, combination of ingredients, or compositions having saidcombinations disclosed in the specification. The protocol can befollowed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied onantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation can be compared with that Trolox, a water-solubletocopherol analogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.

Mushroom Tyrosinase Activity Assay:

In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-stepbiosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from thepolymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytesand produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color toskin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) can beincubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absenceof each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification. Pigment formation can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinaseactivity can be calculated compared to non-treated controls to determinethe ability of test ingredients or combinations thereof to inhibit theactivity of purified enzyme. Test ingredient inhibition can be comparedwith that of kojic acid (Sigma).

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:

An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX isa bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidaseactivities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to ahydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidasecomponent reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to thecorresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes,and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures theperoxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity isassayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitorscreening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical) can be used to analyze theeffects of each of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification on the activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 orCOX-2). According to manufacturer instructions, purified enzyme, hemeand test ingredients can be mixed in assay buffer and incubated withshaking for 15 min at room temperature. Following incubation,arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate can be added to initiate thereaction. Color progression can be evaluated by colorimetric platereading at 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity canbe calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the abilityof test ingredients to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:

An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-hemeiron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecularoxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the mainsubstrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then beconverted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that aresubsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatory mediators.This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screeninglipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated fromthe incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonicacid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, CaymanChemical) can be used to determine the ability of each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification to inhibitenzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test ingredients can bemixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10 min at roomtemperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid can be added toinitiate the reaction and mixtures incubated for an additional 10 min atroom temperature. Colorimetric substrate can be added to terminatecatalysis and color progression was evaluated by fluorescence platereading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of lipoxyganse activity can becalculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability ofeach of the active ingredients, any one of the combination ofingredients, or compositions having said combinations disclosed in thespecification to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Elastase Assay:

EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit #E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene,Oreg. USA) can be used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay formeasuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of the activeingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, or compositionshaving said combinations disclosed in the specification. The EnzChek kitcontains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that can be labeled withdye such that the conjugate's fluorescence can be quenched. Thenon-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteasesto yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase influorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader.Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. The peptide,chloromethyl ketone, can be used as a selective, collective inhibitor ofelastase when utilizing the EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening forelastase inhibitors.

Oil Control Assay:

An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion from sebaceous glandsand/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceous glands can beassayed by using standard techniques known to those having ordinaryskill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used. Each of theactive ingredients, any one of the combination of ingredients, orcompositions having said combinations disclosed in the specification canbe applied to one portion of the forehead once or twice daily for a setperiod of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, ormore days), while another portion of the forehead is not treated withthe composition. After the set period of days expires, then sebumsecretion can be assayed by application of fine blotting paper to thetreated and untreated forehead skin. This is done by first removing anysebum from the treated and untreated areas with moist and dry cloths.Blotting paper can then be applied to the treated and untreated areas ofthe forehead, and an elastic band can be placed around the forehead togently press the blotting paper onto the skin. After 2 hours theblotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry and thentransilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion (or lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

REFERENCES

The following references, to the extent that they provide exemplaryprocedural or other details supplementary to those set forth herein, arespecifically incorporated herein by reference.

-   Cao et al. 1993.-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12^(th)    Edition, 2008 (“CTFA”), Volume 2 page 2399-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12^(th)    Edition, 2008 (“CTFA”), Volume 1 page 198, page 655-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 4^(th)    Edition, 1991 (“CTFA”), pp. 12 and 80

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method for moisturizing skin, the methodcomprising topically applying to skin in need thereof a compositioncomprising: 0.01 to 3% by weight of lactobacillus ferment; 0.001 to 1%by weight of Ferula foetida root extract; 0.001 to 1% by weight ofHelianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract; 0.001 to 1% by weight ofTerminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract; and 0.1 to 3% by weight ofniacinamide, wherein the skin in need thereof is dry skin, and whereinthe composition is not applied to dark spots on the skin, uneven skintone, or hyperpigmented skin.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein thelactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extract, Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed extract, and Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract areeach aqueous extracts.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein thelactobacillus ferment, Ferula foetida root extract, Helianthus annuus(sunflower) seed extract, and Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract areeach alcohol extracts.
 4. The method of claim 1, wherein the compositionis formulated as an emulsion.
 5. The method of claim 4, wherein theemulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
 6. The method of claim 1, whereinthe composition is formulated as a serum.
 7. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition further comprises one or more additionalingredients selected from one or more preservatives, moisturizingagents, conditioning agents, thickening agents, structuring agents,emulsifiers, pH adjusters, chelating agents, and antioxidants.